In run-up for Easter an interview conducted by The Chocolate Festival London since it wraps it up pretty well.
[don't even think junk-choc Easter eggs (instead Damian Allsop's awe-inspiring master egg www.damianallsop.com)!]
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Master of Chocolate Interview with Philipp Kauffmann:
Kauffmann comes from a long line of conservationists. His ancestors include Georg Ludwig Hartig, the 18th century agriculturalist, who helped coin the term ‘sustainability’ and who argued in 1791 that forests should be managed in such a way that future generations can draw as much advantage from them as those living in the present.
In 2008 Philipp Kauffmann left his UN job in New York to co-found Original Beans. The award-winning chocolate and conservation company was set up based on the simple idea that what we consume, we must replenish. So for every bar you buy, local cocoa farmers plant one tree that can be tracked on the company’s website. Their cocoa is ethically sourced from the Bolivian Amazon, the rainforests of Northwest Ecuador, the foothills of the North Peruvian Andes and around Virunga National Park in Eastern DR Congo.
Q. Where did your love of chocolate begin?
A. In the rainforests. Cacao is a magical tree, mythical like our olive and apple tree. I love the tree, with its beautiful flowers, the funny fruit on the stem, with this uniquely fine perfume and taste of lychee, pear, citrus… And I love the gentle humid air of a tropical forest, with all the endless sounds and all this abundance. That is what I want to taste in a chocolate.
Q. Tell us one fact about chocolate that you find fascinating.
A. That the evolution of chocolate is actually just the beginning. All the really exciting developments – discovering and protecting the diversity of cacao, developing flavours through fermentation, changing the industry to become sustainable – are ahead of us.
At Original Beans, we use Domori’s ratio that of 100% end product quality, 50% comes from nature (i.e. variety, soil, biodiversity, shade, etc.), 25% is added by the craftsmanship of a cacao farmer (farming, harvest, fermentation, drying), and only 25% we add in the factory (roasting, grinding, conching).
The industry has hardly invested in the last 25%, i.e. good manufacture. Let alone in the remaining 75%. Now that the consumer is slowly discovering all of this, there is so much to develop and change for the better.
Q. If you were stranded on a desert island which chocolate would you most crave?
A. One that doesn’t melt too quickly! So: dark cacao, but enough sugars to taste fruit flavors. You can already hear: I’d have to bring a library, like Original Beans ‘Story of Cacao in 4 Bars’.
Q. What was the catalyst that prompted you to set up Original Beans?
A. My experience as a conservationist and entrepreneur. I have seen the rainforest of Borneo disappear – go up in flames – within the last decade. For palm oil in my soap, and illegal timber in your living room. Thoughtless business is destroying the world and conscious business will take care of it. Original Beans is our contribution to transforming a horrendously thoughtless chocolate industry towards becoming a conscious, replenishing force.
Q. What are the company’s aims?
A. Our slogan is “The Planet: Replant It”. There you have it. Simply: if we replant secondary forest quicker than we deforest primary rainforest, and we empower smallholder farmers to become conservation stewards in the process, we may have a chance to help conserve rainforests.
Q. Why do you consider conservation so important?
A. In this age, I don’t think there is anything more relevant than re-establishing the balance between humans and our planet. Rainforests are the lungs of the Earth, our largest freshwater reservoirs, and the great genetic library of life on our planet. We are allowing them to be destroyed by poverty and greed. And here is the exciting good news: quality chocolate can really change that.
Q. What in your opinion makes for magnificent chocolate?
A. I think as consumers we are beyond the point of defining products in one dimension, say taste or fairness. I want a product that offers me empowering consumption, which aligns my interest to enjoy, with my interest to contribute, with my interest to learn and explore. To enjoy, I love beautiful packaging. To contribute, I want to have it fully natural. To learn, I like it to tell me a story. To enjoy, I like tasting authentic fruit notes. To contribute (to my health) I want no additives. To explore, I like to discover new cacaos and ingredients.
Q. What is Original Beans’ greatest achievement to date?
A. That we are continuing to walk our talk, even if the economy is slow and the market noisy. We have discovered and protected a rare cacao (the Piura Porcelana). We are deeply invested in developing a sustainable, high-end cacao origin in one of the most tormented places in the world, Eastern Congo. We have just released our new packaging that is entirely made from wood, carton and foil, 100% renewable and bio-compostable. And we’ve just become the first chocolate supplier accredited by the Sustainable Restaurant Association.
Q. Have you noticed any changes in consumer attitudes towards chocolate over the past decade?
A. I think we consumers are awakening from the dream world of plastic-wrapped Easter eggs that turn out to be a nightmare for everybody involved, from the child who may be forced to produce the cacao to the child that may be forced to become obese on it. Taste, health, and true happiness are becoming key to our consumer choice. What I think needs to change more dramatically is the role of retailers. I would hope for more leadership and less catering to our engrained expectations and tastes.
Q. Who or what inspires you?
A. Without doubt, the professionals I have the privilege of working with every day in the supply chain of Original Beans. There are dozens of people who make this product and brand happen, and they are all deeply committed to the values of excellence, sustainability and social good. I would love to bring them all together at one point.
Q. Who would you invite to your ideal dinner party and what would you serve for dessert?
A. Ah well, I just made my wish (see above). This would be a dinner with a guest list that brings together indigenous Indian cacao gatherers from the Beni (Bolivian Amazon) to Prince Jaime de Bourbon Parma, who is a friend and advisor and goes out to Congo to clean up the mining industry there.
Q. What plans do you have in store for Original Beans?
A. Inspire, grow the community, make the best products, and replant the next million trees… We are continuously screening new conservation project and cacaos to develop another original bean. I hope later this year, we’ll be able to announce one. Thanks for staying tuned.